Saturday, April 12, 2008

Dram from Japan

Whisky--


“The Yamazaki” 12y.o. single malt whisky, by Suntory LTD, Japan.
(750ml, 43% ABV)

The bottle is more squat than I’m used to in Scottish whiskies. Opening the bottle, I got another surprise when I pulled back the foil to find a sturdy screwcap instead of a stopper. But the packaging is a delight. The marketing folks at Suntory do a fine job upholding the Japanese reputation for attention to detail.

This is the youngest of Suntory’s two “Yamazaki” whiskies. Online reviews say that its character falls somewhere between a Speyside scotch and a bourbon. I’m inclined to agree.

The bouquet has a lot of the vanilla and clove I’d expect from bourbon, and the color is a handsome ruddy gold. But at first sip, it’s clear this was made to follow the Scottish tradition. The somewhat sweet taste and buttery mouthfeel give way to spice and a moderate burn on the swallow and an astringent finish. It reminds me of Glenlivet. However, it lacks Glenlivet’s medicinal iodine tang and it has none of the smoke I’d expect from a peaty island whisky like Laphroaig.

The Yamazaki’s burn and vanilla seem a lot like bourbon. It’s reminiscent of Blanton’s single barrel or Knob Creek, but the full mouthfeel is more like scotch.

Overall, I like it. It’s accessible and balanced, if not too exciting.


Rating: 7.5 out of 10 Good Stuff

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