Bebo and Ravi

Dining--

• Bebo Trattoria

http://www.bebotrattoria.com/

• Ravi Kabob

http://www.zabihah.com/ds.php?id=431

When I'm in the mood for is robust everyday food, light fare like tapas and sushi won't do. Roberto Donna's Bebo Trattoria, and Ravi Kabob, despite their differences, both fit the bill.

Bebo Trattoria serves superb hearty regional Italian fare. Ravi Kabob is the best Pakistani kabob house in the DC metro area. Both lack the atmosphere and service of power-scene restaurants, but that's part of their charm. They're relaxed, accessible, and often swamped with customers on the weekends. I recommend taking Anthony Bourdain's advice, and making time to visit mid-week. The staff will be more relaxed and you won't be fighting the mob to get a seat.

Now, Ravi Kabob isn't exactly Bebo's equal. It's a Lahori-style Pakistani kabob shop that serves a wide variety of meat based curries, and very good naan. But, judging by online comments, folks not used to the Pakistani way of doing things may be put-off. The place doesn't attempt to be some style-over-substance Applebees, or corner bistro. It's honest halal Pakistani food with no apologies for presentation or atmosphere. Like lining up for a Cheesesteak in Philly, you're likely to be shoulder to shoulder with other patrons and service is brusque. Also, hygiene-fanatics may find the conditions insufficiently antiseptic. Their loss. The chickpea curry, chicken kabobs, seekh kabob and haleem (on weekends only) are truly wonderful. Chicken karahi however, despite glowing reviews I've read, seemed lackluster--overcooked stringy white meat kills this dish. If you want chicken karahi, I recommend the boneless chicken version at Mehran restaurant on Pennsylvania Avenue in Foggy Bottom.

In contrast to Ravi Kabob, Bebo Trattoria is spotless and spacious...well cavernous actually. A 20 foot ceiling makes it feel a bit like a banquet hall. But, it too has received criticism from patrons for inattentive and slow service. From what I've heard about dining in Italy, the service is authentic. I guess folks there just aren't as pressed for time and uptight as Americans. Anyway, if you expect this style of service and, again, you visit mid-week, it's not a problem. In fact, a leisurely dinner enhances the experience of Bebo's rich and flavorful food. Perfectly cooked pasta, fine Italian cheeses, polenta, cured meats, and delightful desserts make eating at Bebo like a little Italian vacation. The only sour note in the otherwise perfect programme was the gnocchi. Doughy, gelatinous and containing no more flavor than wet cornstarch, the gnocchi disappointed despite a very nice sauce.

I plan to keep going back for Ravi Kabob's haleem. Haleem is a sort of rich, fiery curry-chowder of shredded meat (usually chicken or lamb), and pureed wheat and lentils. This is the best rendition of the dish I've found in Maryland, DC or Virginia. The consistency is perfect and the heat and aromatic spices are spot-on.

I also plan to return to Bebo. The prices are surprisingly low even considering the owner is luminary chef Roberto Donna. The food is toe-curlingly good. Polenta dishes are buttery goodness, the salsiccia appetizer is memorable, the four cheese risotto haunts my dreams, and my new favorite dessert is the bomboloni con il bicerin--think of it as homemade doughnut holes with a chocolate-rum dipping sauce. Another reason to go back--Bebo also has a separate menu available only at the bar.

Ravi Kabob 8.5 out of 10 -- Very good.

Bebo Trattoria 9 out of 10 --- Wow.